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  • 10/17/2011
I think we all know what this usually means, but I am hoping it is not quite that .... Well I was messing around with my car this weekend and took off the radiator cap and notived some what I believe is oil in my coolant. It isnt frothy looking like I usually think of with a blown head gasket. Instead it looks like the nice neon green coolant I put in there last week but with white balls of what I guess is oil. I checked my oil and there is no sign of coolant in there. I have changed both my oil and coolant about 3 times since owning the car and never had any signs of cross contamination before. The only thing I can think of is my head lifted for a little when I hit 19-20 psi for 2 pulls before I blew my gasket out. I do have the oem gasket and head bolts on, but I figured that 2 runs at 20 psi for probably 10 seconds total wouldnt lift the head as I have heard of people running 25 psi with no issues. Any thoughts?
  • 10/17/2011
Stupid question, but you're absolutely sure it's oil? There are ways to test your coolant to see if it's contaminated with oil. Oil cooler line busted in the radiator? Shot in the dark... but given how you rec'd the car, I wouldn't put it past. Since you also found the oil relatively in-tact versus being frothy.... Oil contaminating the coolant means oil pressure was greater than the coolant. Where does that happen? If your head gasket was blown, the engine would run like crap too. If it were very minimal, you could start the engine, pop the cap to the reservoir, and I believe you should see bubbles if it was blown. That's my shot at it
  • 10/17/2011
What rockysds said. But when you come to think of it, there really isn't any other thing that those white bubbles could be. I mean oil is just about the only thing that turns white when water, colant, or just about any other liquid mixes with it. The only other explanation to your problem could be that if you took it to a shop to get the oil change done, someone probably opened the radiator cap to check it or w.e. and they forgot to put it back and when they went to put in the oil some spilled in thats about it. But in any case try flushing out all the coolant you have in your radiator and flowing through all the lines and what not and put in brand new coolant and after running your car for about a day, if it comes up with those white bubbles again then you already know what the problem is. (:
  • 10/17/2011
In my head I went through everything that I could possibly think that it was. I mean I used JB weld and RTV, but all of that was on the exhaust side or oil side of things. Nothing ever touched the coolant system. Oil cooler line busted in the radiator? I dont think that I have that do I?? Although the radiator is in piss poor shape. Well, my oil level was about 1/4-1/2 a quart high due to a crappy dipstick that someone broke, but I didnt think having it just a little high would do anything bad since its an old motor and most likely burns oil anyways. So the oil pressure could have been a bit too high. Yeah, the car runs absolutely fine sans exhaust leak. Hmmm, I will check that once I get the manifold back on. Nope, I definitely do not take my cars to the shop for an oil change! That isn't to say I didn't do that myself, haha. Yeah, I think I will keep my boost down to 16psi or so, flush the coolant system and see where I am. Like I said this happened within the last week as I just flushed both systems and there was no sign of contamination before. What I really hope/think happened is when I hit 20 psi it was the limit of the +100k mile stock head bolts and they just lifted under the pressure for a split second and because the oil was too high some jumped over. Thanks guys!
EDITED on 10/17/2011
  • 10/22/2011
Well... It looks like I am going to be replacing the head gasket next weekend. I will be replacing the timing belt and balance shaft belt while I have it apart. Aside from ARP head studs, is there anything else performance-wise that I can install while it is apart?
  • 10/22/2011
I'd delete the balance shafts. But that's me. And I HATE balance shafts. Mostly because they are what blew my car up in the first place. Which headgasket are you going with?
EDITED on 10/22/2011
  • 10/22/2011
Originally posted by MoparDSM
I'd delete the balance shafts. But that's me. And I HATE balance shafts. Mostly because they are what blew my car up in the first place. Which headgasket are you going with?
Nevermind....Got rod knock while messing with the tuning last night.... :-/ I am going to take this as a sign and am just gonna bite the bullet and get a 6 bolt! It sucks, the motor only has 100k miles on it and maybe 300 of them are on something other than a stock turbo. I thought I was finally getting the car running better, oh well I guess its the curse of DSM. I was gonna go with just the OEM one. It seems to be the best for decent power from what I heard. Can you remove the balance shafts without taking the engine out?
  • 10/23/2011
The OEM composite or the MLS? You are going to need to have the head and block resurfaced to get a proper seal with the MLS. You can remove the balance shafts with the engine in, but it isn't a walk in the park. I was figuring that you were going to have the motor out to get the head/block surfaced for an MLS gasket anyway.
  • 10/24/2011
Originally posted by MoparDSM
The OEM composite or the MLS? You are going to need to have the head and block resurfaced to get a proper seal with the MLS. You can remove the balance shafts with the engine in, but it isn't a walk in the park. I was figuring that you were going to have the motor out to get the head/block surfaced for an MLS gasket anyway.
I was going to go with the composite just to get it to limp along until I could get a 6 bolt built up to install, buuuuuut now I just have to buy a built 6 bolt and hope that I get a decent one!
  • 10/24/2011
Originally posted by drxlcarfreak
Nevermind....Got rod knock while messing with the tuning last night.... :-/ I am going to take this as a sign and am just gonna bite the bullet and get a 6 bolt! It sucks, the motor only has 100k miles on it and maybe 300 of them are on something other than a stock turbo. I thought I was finally getting the car running better, oh well I guess its the curse of DSM. I was gonna go with just the OEM one. It seems to be the best for decent power from what I heard. Can you remove the balance shafts without taking the engine out?
You mention rod knock. What exactly were the symptoms you were experiencing? I'm sure that you could have resolved the issue with your (7bolt or 5bolt)? But you're jumping to a 6bolt as a result. I wanna hear why!
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